
If yesterday we had to wake up as early as 4 in the morning to catch the flight, today's itinerary started a bit late, so we flew out of bed a bit late! The weather is still freezing, with the temperature never going beyond 10 degrees Celsius, even in the midday. We added another layer of clothing to withstand the coldness.
No matter what, the journey must still go on. By 10 am, our bus headed to the center of Bukhara. Bolo Haouz Mosque, Ark Citadel, and the Kalyan Minaret are some of the most famous structures. Another important and symbolic highlight is the Lyabi-Hauz Ensemble, which we stop at in the evening.
Inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage listing, Bolo-Hauz Mosque is among the must-visit attractions in Bukhara. The mosque was built during the Emir of Bukhara era in the 17th century, but the expansion continued until the end of the 20th century. The minaret was built later in 1917 and the ayvan was from the early 20th century design. Ilham explained that ayvan is built as the shelter during summer. The place got its name from the pond just in front of the mosque; that is, bolo and hauz refer to the children and pond, respectively.
As some of our group members took the chance to pray, we explored the mosque inside out. Well, I just make dua's that hopefully we are protected from the on-the-rise coronavirus pandemic... later called covid-19.
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| What a stunning clear blue sky! |
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| The decorated ayvan (iwan) with ornamented ceiling |
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| Majestically designed in the prayer hall. The mehrab is dated to the 17th century. |
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| The summer ayvan with ornamented ceiling |
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| Trying to be a creative photographer |
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| Boloi Hovuz Jome' Masjidi |
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| My best buddy ever... |
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| The pond that used to be a water reservoir. |
Earlier, Mr. Ilham said that today will be pretty much walking tours around the old city. Next stop was the Ark Citadel or Fortress, just across the street. We walked, passing through the Shukhov Tower, before crossing the road.
The spectacular-looking Ark, a royal town-within-a-town, is Bukhara’s oldest structure, occupied from the 5th century right up until 1920, when it was bombed by the Red Army. For centuries it was the residence of the emirs of Bukhara. It’s about 80% ruins but there are still some remaining royal quarters, now housing several interesting museums. ~ Courtesy of Lonely Planet.
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| Quite challenging to cross the road |
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| Siapa nak pergi jamban? |
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| The Shukhov Tower |
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| The restored back gate of the citadel is now the main entrance. |
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| From here, the Emir observed the bazaar in front of the back gate. |
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| It used to be a bazaar back in the 5th century. |
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| Two guards manning the back door, another one at the other side... |
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| The Reception and Coronation Court |
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| The submerged chamber on the right wall was the treasury and mint |
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| One of the museum exhibits the artifact from the Oasis |
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| The remains of the Royal apartments overlooking the Bukhara |
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| The Bolo Hauz Mosque from the distant |
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| The door to one of the royal rooms is now a museum |
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| The open-air Royal stable to the right of the corridor |
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| I'm sitting in front of the Noghorahona, the musical instruments room |
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| The wall has been restored due to the bombing by the Red Army. |
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| Our tour guide, Mr Ilham |
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| Taking a break and soothing legs |
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| The original part of the fortress wall was made using mud. |
After about a 10-minute walk, we reached the next stop, the Great Minaret of Kalon. There were bunches of souvenir stalls along the road, but you can skip them.
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| Still looking for good bargains |
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| Among of the souvenirs stall on the way leading to Kalon Mosque Complex |
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| Tempat tunggu bas ke ni? |
The Kalon Minaret itself has many stories to be told since the early 10th century. The original, built using wood, collapsed and reportedly killed many of the worshipers, and it was later rebuilt as seen now, built in 1127 by Arslan Khan of the Karakhanids. The huge complex comprises the Kalon Mosque itself and Mir Arab, which is now an inactive madrasah for the righteous arbiter. Even the mosque is not functioning as it used to.
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| Nu'man bought a delicious curry puff |
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| Other than calling for prayers, the minaret attract the caravan along the Silk Road. |
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| A huge portal (iwan) of the Mir Arab |
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| The original door is still intact to a newer frame |
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| A simple yet unique ornament |
Since the 7th century, several ensembles have been erected in this complex as praying halls. But many were burned down by Genghis Khan during the invasions in 1220. Only the minaret has been kept safe during the siege.
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| The current mosque were built in 1514 |
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| Let's go inside! |
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| Here we go... |
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| It is a huge inner courtyard |
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| The praying hall |
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| Most of the mosque has this structure at the main entrance |
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| The original mehrab |
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| Panoramic view inside the mosque |
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| The Kalon Minaret also survived from the Red Army bombing in 1920 |
Then... it's coffee time! @ Oriental Tea House, just 200 meters from the Kalon complex.
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| Cantik la cafe ni |
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| A wooden crafted menu |
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| Spice tea for me... |
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| and hot chocolate for Nu'man |
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| We were intrigued by the Aladdin's lamp, made from brass |
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| Nu'man bought a smaller dagger |
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| The shop's name |
Lunch was a bit late at around 2:30 pm at the Dolon Restaurant. Our next highlight was the Lyab-i Hauz Complex.
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| Nu'man wanted to buy the Uzbek hat, but it was rather expensive here |
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| I love Bukhara! |
The Lyab-i Hauz Complex is an ensemble with three large architectural buildings, namely Kukeldash Madrasah, Khanaka, and Nodir Divan-begi, with the pond (hauz) in the center. Kanaka was closed for renovation, and the Nodir Divan-begi was across the street. Given around 40 minutes at the complex, we ventured into the Jewish community, met residents, and hopped into their synagogue.
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| The mulberry trees |
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| This our first time get into a Jewish synagogue. |
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| It was pretty small, for small quarters I guessed |
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| Walking along the Jewish Quarters |
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| On the video called with Opah at the kampung |
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| It was really nice strolled along the pond |
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| The madrassah, almost all the Uzbek architecture having the same frontage |
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| Among the prominent Sufi who owned this complex |
To our surprise, Mr. Ilham brought us again to his parents' house for dinner. He did tell us that yesterday, his neighbor came by, curious about a big group. We were laughing out loud when Ilham mentioned that we were the relatives of his wife. P.
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